There has been scrutiny about the leather industry’s environmental impact for a long time. Arguments have turned to the carbon emissions and chemical-laden tanning, and how sustainability needs to be mainstreamed in the leather world. In recent years, though, that shift has come about: pressure from regulators, brands, and consumers have made leather take a turn towards the green.

Today, the term ‘eco-conscious leather’ encompasses cleaner tanning processes, waste reduction, and traceable sourcing. We examine how the leather industry is adapting and changing, and what that really means.

The Environmental Impact of Conventional Leather

Traditional leather production is made up of several stages that can adversely impact the environment:

• Livestock farming is a contributor to methane emissions, and needs a lot of water consumption (though arguably, leather is a by-product of livestock demand).
• Tanning, particularly chrome tanning, uses heavy metals like chromium, which can oxidize to a further more toxic metal if not properly managed.
• Wastewater originating from tanneries contains acids, sulfides, salts, and other pollutants.

Every metric ton of raw hide processed by the leather industry used 15000 litres of water, and potentially gives way to 600 kg of solid waste.

What Makes Leather ‘Eco-Conscious’?

Looking at the entire supply chain is what takes regular leather and makes it sustainable:

• Sourcing needs to take place from traceable and ethically raised livestock.
• Cleaner tanning processes should be employed, as they reduce water usage and chemicals.
• Energy-efficient machinery can be used to offset the carbon footprint, while tanneries can treat waste more thoroughly.

Additionally, certifications such as LWG (Leather Working Group), ICEC, and ISO 14001 exist to help standardize environmental compliance in tanneries.

Vegetable Tanning: The Better Alternative

One of the oldest methods of tanning, vegetable tanning uses the natural tannins extracted from tree bark such as oak and chestnut, leaves, or fruits to create unique natural colors.

The environmental benefits of this approach are that no chromium or synthetic chemicals are used, which means the wastewater produced is less toxic. Also, the waste created is biodegradable.

However, this approach takes several weeks, compared to  the hours it takes for chrome tanning. Some smaller artisanal shops like Leather New York do use these techniques, which is why their pieces are better for the environment and the consumer. Vegetable-tanned leather is great for products which you need a bit of toughness and durability from.

Waste Reduction and Upcycling

Eco-conscious leather practices focus on minimizing waste such as scraps and offcuts, which are then used to make small accessories, or patchwork items. Another option is creating bonded leather, which is made by grinding leather waste down and binding it together with adhesives to reduce landfill waste. Finally, upcycled leather uses leather goods discarded by consumers to create new items with a much lower energy burden.Traceability and Transparency

Supply chain traceability is a topic of the moment with many consumers, and especially in the fashion industry. Through methods involving blockchain, digital tagging, and reporting, companies should keep track of:

• Farms of origin.
• Tannery certifications.
• Transport emissions and energy usage.

Reshaping Leather with Sustainability

Sustainability is no longer optional in the leather industry, but is now a competitive requirement with consumers and policymakers alike. The preferences are clear: lower chemical usage, smarter waste management methods, and ethical sourcing are the need of the hour. In some leather goods stores NYC locals frequent, this shift is what creates value and sets the great brands apart.